I thought this jacket was going to be easy. Ha! I've been working on getting rid of the pouf in the shoulder all morning.
So here's what I've done to fix my problem area:
- I went up a size in the sleeve which worked great. I have the ease I needed for my upper arms. I'm going to line the muslin sleeve to make sure the ease is there once the lining is in. If not, I'll adjust but at least I know what to look for now.
- I removed over an inch of the sleeve head. I'll show you in photos what I did. There are quite a few photos ahead.
|Author: Sarah Veblen|
|This is a step by step illustration of how to adjust the sleeve head to fit. Basically, you fold away the "extra" and pin to fit. I pinned and basted and tried on a few times to get the right fit.|
|See that piece that I'm holding? That was the extra amount of fabric that caused the "pouf" I didn't like.|
|I measured the amount I wanted to remove (less the seam allowance).|
To trace my pattern I start with tissue paper. I use the type that goes into gift bags - I paid 99 cents for a pack of tissue paper.
|I then placed a sheet of wax tracing paper on the tissue. The wax part goes face down. I purchased this large sheet from Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch.|
|Next comes the pattern piece - just lay down on top of the face-down wax paper (creates a sandwich)|
|Then I used my tracer - Easy!!|
|The line is faint in the photo above but you can see the pattern traced here. I put the book right in the middle - the perfect pattern weight!|
|After tracing, I pinned the pleats in the tissue as seen in the photo above. It created the sleeve head and curved just like the fabric did. This made it easy to measure and cut.|
|That's the extra piece of my fabric cut out (minus the seam allowance). I pinned it to the tissue and marked the tissue where I needed to cut.|
|Here's the extra portion cut off.|
The photo on the left illustrates the sleeve head that was adjusted. The photo on the right is before the adjustment.
Did I make a difference by cutting off the extra fabric? Yes, I did. The bunch of fabric is no longer there and the fit is better.
(Sorry for the dark photos).