McCall's 6844 Cardigan

McCall's 6844 Cardigan

This is one of McCall's new fall patterns.  As soon as I saw it, I wanted it.  Here's a photo of it for reference:

 That back view is for View C.  It is a close fitting cardigan.



Here's my version:

My version is obviously not as fitted but I like it anyway - I can wear a light sweater or long sleeve underneath it.  I cut the medium.  I am going to make another in a different color and I'm debating whether I should cut a small.
This was a very quick and easy pattern to sew.  I didn't make any alterations.  I have to say - I'm very pleased with it.  The instructions are simple and straight forward.  I didn't really use them but I followed Mimi's suggestion of sewing the sleeves in flat - here's a link: http://www.lowpricefabric.blogspot.com/2013/10/mimi-g-pattern-review-diy-steps.html#.UmwbMPmsim4.   Coincidentally, I had black and cream fabric so it ended up looking similar to hers.  I highly recommend this pattern!

I am going to make a few more in a few different colors.  There are other variations for this pattern but I like the peplum dipping at the back.  Gives it a little more oomph!

I used a soft double knit from Fabric.com.  They had a 40% off knit sale about a week or two ago and I ordered a bunch of double knits.
I have a camel color double knit that I want to make up in this pattern - stay tuned - the fabric is already laying on the table waiting to be cut.  I have to hurry before the cats think I laid out the fabric for them to sleep on...

New Look 6123 - Dress

I made New Look 6123:

I really enjoyed sewing this one.  I used a double knit fabric which is a dream to sew and super comfy to wear.  I made my dress sleeveless for cardi's and jackets.  I didn't make any adjustments but next time, I will leave the zipper out (in the back) if I use double knit again and I will make the back a little narrower.  It's got slight gaping at the neckline in the back but my hair is long and it covers it.  Not worried about it right now.  Here's my look:

Pretty simple - from the pleats on the side to finishing up the edges (I used self fabric bias) and a blind stitch hem - I finished it within a few hours over a weekend.  I think I'll make another in black very soon.

Here's my review:

Pattern Description: Dress pattern 

Pattern Sizing: 8-18, I cut a straight size 14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? yes - they were simple and easy to follow

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
No dislikes - I liked that the pattern is simple and has different dress options.

Fabric Used:
Even though it doesn't recommend double knit, I used a double knit from Fabric.com. I went with double knit after seeing Mimi G used double knit. I also read that most patterns that call for woven fabrics can be made up with double knit. 



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't make any alterations or patterns changes with this dress. Pretty happy with the fit although I would have liked it to be a little more fitted. Next time, if I use a double knit, I will leave the back zipper out since the neckline is wide enough to pull over the body.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes!
Conclusion: This is the first time I used this pattern and I'm not sure why I waited so long. It's a great pattern and I want to make more using the other options. 

New Look 6216 - View D - Pants

New Look 6216 - I made pants!

I haven't blogged since March!  Wow time flies...
But I have been steadily sewing.  A lot.  I've got some dresses and some skirts, tops, a jacket and now - pants!  I'll have to share some of the skirts at some point because I think some of the patterns are really worth the effort.

For this post, I'm reviewing New Look 6216 - View D - the pants.
Here's a link to the pattern: http://www.simplicity.com/p-9022-misses-knit-tops-and-pants.aspx

Very simple, right?  Now here's a pic of my pants:

They look pretty casual and I think they can be dressed up a bit - I made these for work. As you can see, I'm wearing them with heels and the length is about ankle length.  That's what I wanted.  We have a business casual (thank God!) dress code at work and since I will be wearing these for work, I left off the drawstring.  I just did an elastic waistband.  I used a 1" non-roll elastic and it sits flat against my belly (which is not so flat but whatevs).  It's a great illusion - I'm happy.

The fabric is a cotton/nylon blend with no stretch.

The back looks pretty good too, sorry no pics of the back.  I have a full derriere and these pants fit great around the back.  Not too tight, not too loose - just right.  At first I was worried that the back was going to be too low but once I added the waistband, there were  no issues whatsoever.  I do have full thighs and here's the exciting part - I DID NOT HAVE TO ALTER THIS PATTERN AT ALL!!!!  Super exciting for me.  I've tried a few pairs of pant patterns and so far I am happiest with these. I'm about a 38" hip and 44" around my thighs and butt.  I didn't alter this pattern at all to fit me.  Incredible.  This will be my TNT pants pattern from now on.  I hemmed it about a 1" 1/4 and then blind stitched for a better look.  Easy.

If you have any questions about this pattern, let me know.  I think it's great and I highly recommend it!

What do you think of the ankle, tapered look?  Too 80's?  Or just right for now?

Here's my review for Pattern Review:

Pattern Description: 
This is a coordinate pattern - it has a few different blouse options and a pair of pants. I made the pants so that is what I will review
Pattern Sizing: Ranges from 8 to 18 - I made my pants in 12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? not 100% but that's okay - I like the fit of my pants better on me than on the model. It's a closer fit on me, I think and that's exactly what I was looking for.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Extremely simple - great for beginners.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There was nothing I disliked. I absolutely love the way they have you put the pockets in. So simple and easy and so fast!

Fabric Used: I used some kind of cotton/nylon blend. there's no stretch in it at all and it still worked for me!! I'm a happy camper at this point.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only change I made was to omit the drawstring and the button hole for the drawstring. I inserted the elastic, pinned and basted the waistband, tried it on for it and then promptly sewed it up. No other alterations needed!!! Wow! I usually have to alter for full thighs and I didn't have to do it with this pattern  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? a million times yes, I'm sewing this again. I recommend this to others.

Conclusion: 
I love these pants!! So fast and easy. Sorry I don't have better pics - my photographer is on Xbox and so, blurry pics were the best I could get. 

Chiffon Maxi Skirt

I made a maxi skirt! Here it is ~

I used a poly chiffon from lowpricefabric.com  - they have a lot of pretty fabrics in poly and silk that can be used for maxis, scarves, etc.  I think I'm going to order more of these fabrics.  I may just rock maxi's all summer!! 

This skirt was super easy to make and quick.  I used Mimi G's free tutorial located here on her  YouTube channel: link  Please let me know if that isn't working for any reason.  I'll link you to the post instead on her blog instead.

I did something a little different than she did.  Since this chiffon is very sheer - doubled my skirt and I think I may have to line it or wear some kind of spandex shorts underneath - even with double layers it's kind of sheer.  You can see the sheerness of one layer in the photo below. 

I used my Narrow Hemmer Foot on my regular machine.  I confess I haven't tried doing that on my serger yet.  I used that narrow hem for all edges - the seams, waist and hem.  The reason why is because chiffon frays.  After I finished all the edges, I made the casing for the elastic.  I just treated both layers as one - this fabric is thin enough so there were no complications there.

I popped in my elastic - closed up the waistband, gathered my fabric evenly and done!!

Mind you, this is the first time I sew with chiffon.  I didn't worry about cutting my fabric perfectly since I knew that it was going to be gathered at the waist with elastic.  It may have slipped a few times and been uneven, but can you tell?
I found some other maxi skirt tutorials that use knit as an underskirt.  I'd like to try that too.
 
Conclusion: I'll work with chiffon again and I really want to make some more maxi skirts.

Now off to find suitable tops for this :)

Happy Friday!

Happy Friday, everyone!!

I'm so excited it's Friday - my weeks have been super busy and I don't have a lot of time for sewing anymore :(   (super sad face)

So my plan for tonight is to sew something!

I've got some options:

New Look 6180 ~ a faux shirt dress since it doesn't button all the way down.

 If I had not seen Mimi G's version of this dress - I would not have looked at this pattern cover twice.  But her dress is gorgeous and I want one.  What can I say?  I try to emulate what I like - it won't be an exact copy so that's okay right?

Here's my fabric choice - it looks grey but it's really black eyelet.  I will line it with white batiste so that I can accessorize with various colors - yellow belt, yellow shoes/ green belt, green shoes/ red belt, red shoes- I mean wow!  so many options of color!

Here are my next two fabrics:

Colorful and bright ~ perfect for warm sunny weather!

This is a heavier knit and so pretty.  It has a nice texture.  Should this be a wrap dress or should it be B5211?  I haven't decided yet.  Opinions are welcome!!

My TNT pattern

The pattern I am planning on using for both is B5211 - I've used it before and it's a very simple dress to make.  I like using bright colorful fabrics with simple patterns.  I'm going to cut the back on the fold this time for both. I always use the version in blue - with a fabric belt. 

Now take a look at this:

This is a lovely soft printed chiffon.  This should be a long maxi skirt!

Ok - just wanted to show what I'm working with ~ I'm getting to work now! 

Happy Sewing! 

Butterick 5211

This lovely striped fabric was lingering in my stash.  I decided to use Butterick 5211 and make myself a fun dress.  Unfortunately, the camera doesn't capture how pretty this fabric really is.  The white stripes are really crisp and the navy and greens really complement each other.

Butterick 5211 is a simple 1 hour pattern.  Version A has a yoke front, Version B is just two pattern pieces and Version C has gathered, puffy sleeves.  I chose Version B.  It's my second time making Version B but I changed the sizing on my second version.  I went down a size and the fit is SO much better than the first (which hasn't been blogged).

I was trying to beat the rain in these photos - as soon as I stepped inside, it started to rain.  So here's my dress and how I wore it to work today.  I love this dress.

This is a poly jersey - it's soft and comfortable. 

 

I think I did a pretty good job at matching the stripes!

closer shot of the stripes

I tried to cut it so that the wider stripe hit my hip but I didn't quite measure right.  oh well, I'm still happy with it. 

This photo is dark because I was on the back porch - I left the length below my knees.  A friend of mine suggested my skirts and dresses would look better at this length.  I wasn't sure at first but now I see she was right!  

I'm really happy with this dress - it's comfortable and easy - what's not to love? 

Doing something (that should be) easy

Before I begin cutting out the muslin for the Cordova jacket - I'm in the mood to do something easy.

Here's my fabric and my pattern:

I will be making View B - the dress in blue.  I've done it once before but I didn't blog or review it.  I'll blog this one once I'm done. 

Happy Sewing!

Simplicity 1699 Jacket - All Done!

My little jacket is all done!!

I used Simplicity 1699 which is a pattern of coordinates.  It includes a jacket, a peplum top, a dress and a pair of pants.  I've only done the jacket so far.  I am so pleased with this jacket.  It was nice to get compliments at work today and that was before they knew I made it. 

I took these photos outside before the sun went away.  I hope they provide a good look at the jacket.  It's a very simple one - the bodice is lined and there are no closures.  You can add trim but I figured with the fabric I chose, it didn't really need it.  I can always add a button and a loop if I want to close it.

This is cotton eyelet fabric from Yellow Bird Fabrics in Utah.  

It's lined with cotton batiste.

(Why do I always look so serious?)  I love how comfortable this jacket is.  I wore this all day at work.

I cut a size 12. I didn't need to do an FBA or anything other than size up for the sleeves.  The 12 sleeves were too tight for my comfort. 

Maybe I should cut on the fold.  Next time I will. 

 If there was one thing I could change - it would be to cut the back piece on the fold.  There was really no reason not to, I was just following instructions.  But overall, I really like it and I think it came out cute.  I will get  a lot of use from this jacket.  I want to make more in a variety of colors.  It's a great summer jacket for the freezing cold office.  I think this one will look great with a red dress or a green dress. 

Once I was done with the muslin and the fit right, sewing the jacket went pretty quickly.

Conclusion:  I love it!  Another item to place in my clothing rotation. 

Map Yourself

I would love to do a sewing meetup sometime.  But I no longer live in NYC nor in London nor in Wellington, nor any of those other cool places were people are meeting up to shop and have fun with fabric, swaps and patterns and stuff.  I'm a bit jealous of you all! 

So I mapped myself in Vicki's (Another Sewing Scientist) creative idea to map sewers.   I'm one of the blue dots over Central Florida. 

It's really a cool idea - here's the link Map.

Simplicity 1699 Jacket Muslin - Sleeve Head Adjustment

Wow - thank you guys SO much for your comments on my last post.  I am so grateful for your comments and suggestions. I really enjoy the sewing community - everyone I've "met" is so helpful and encouraging. 

I thought this jacket was going to be easy. Ha!  I've been working on getting rid of the pouf in the shoulder all morning.
So here's what I've done to fix my problem area:

• I went up a size in the sleeve which worked great.  I have the ease I needed for my upper arms.  I'm going to line the muslin sleeve to make sure the ease is there once the lining is in.  If not, I'll adjust but at least I know what to look for now.
• I removed over an inch of the sleeve head.  I'll show you in photos what I did.  There are quite a few photos ahead.  

 I used The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, which can be found here

Author: Sarah Veblen 

This is a step by step illustration of how to adjust the sleeve head to fit.  Basically, you fold away the "extra" and pin to fit.  I pinned and basted and tried on a few times to get the right fit.

 Here's a photo of the "extra":

See that piece that I'm holding? That was the extra amount of fabric that caused the "pouf" I didn't like.

I measured the amount I wanted to remove (less the seam allowance).

After this, I went back to my pattern. Knowing that the way the pattern is designed will not work for me in the future, I decided to trace, copy and adjust the pattern.  I learned this tracing method from Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch - link here. 
 
To trace my pattern I start with tissue paper.  I use the type that goes into gift bags - I paid 99 cents for a pack of tissue paper.

I then placed a sheet of wax tracing paper on the tissue.  The wax part goes face down.  I purchased this large sheet from Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch.  

Next comes the pattern piece - just lay down on top of the face-down wax paper (creates a sandwich)

Then I used my tracer - Easy!!

The line is faint in the photo above but you can see the pattern traced here.  I put the book right in the middle - the perfect pattern weight!

After tracing, I pinned the pleats in the tissue as seen in the photo above.  It created the sleeve head and curved just like the fabric did.  This made it easy to measure and cut.

That's the extra piece of my fabric cut out (minus the seam allowance).  I pinned it to the tissue and marked the tissue where I needed to cut.

Here's the extra portion cut off.

Here it is sewn onto my jacket. The tiniest pleat is still visible.  It still made the sleeve head jut out a bit but the fit was much better than before.

 I'm not sure if you can tell the difference between the photo above or this one.  Here I removed the pleat and just gathered the sleeve head.  I also shortened the shoulder about a 1/4" and the shoulder now sits perfectly.  I think this is a vast improvement.  

The photo on the left illustrates the sleeve head that was adjusted.  The photo on the right is before the adjustment.

Did I make a difference by cutting off the extra fabric?  Yes, I did.  The bunch of fabric is no longer there and the fit is better.   

(Sorry for the dark photos).

What do you think of the adjustment I made?  Does it make sense the way I made the adjustment?   I think I'm ready to use my eyelet fabric for the jacket now. 

Also, thanks to Chris Lucas - here's a link to more help http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/5052/on-fitting-sleeves/page/all





 

Simplicity 1699 Jacket Muslin

You've got to see all the progress Victoria of Ten Thousand Sewing Hours (who is hosting the fun Fearless February Sew-Along) has made on her Burda 7192 pants pattern!

From the muslin, it looks like the pants are turning out great.  Can't wait to see them finished! 

 

I spent my Friday night working on my  challenge for Fearless February sewing a muslin of this Simplicity 1699 jacket:

It's a simple lined jacket.  I was surprised when I opened the package to cut out the pieces for the jacket and found there were only 3 pieces.  3!!
There are no zippers, no buttons (uh oh, maybe it wasn't so much of a challenge!)  The pattern does call for a Novelty Braid, which I'm guessing is sort of like adding an embellishment?  It should add a pretty element to my jacket. I'm not sure if I'll do that in black or white or a different color.  I can see this jacket with red or green or blue or yellow.... the color combos are endless!! 

The fabric I have chosen is this pretty black on white eyelet from Yellow Bird Fabrics.  I just have to say, I ordered the fabric over the phone and the customer service was great!! I was very happy with my fabric and the quick shipping.

I worked up the muslin with some kind of cotton fabric I had in my stash.  I think I got it from Joann's when I first started sewing last spring.  Here's my muslin:

I'm not crazy about the way the sleeve poufs at my shoulder.  What do you think about it? It feels a bit too snug around the top of my arms.  Should I size up or just sew a smaller seam? 

Here's a semi side view - I like the way the jacket fits for the most part.  There won't be any closures but there will be some kind of trim around the neck, hem and front opening. 

It falls right over my hip - there is a little fabric wrinkling at my waist in the back but I couldn't a good photo to show you.  I can update later if I can get someone to take photos for me. 

These photos probably all look the same but I wanted to see what it looked like with my hair down.  I always wear it down and over my shoulders.   

See those wrinkles?  That's just from trying it on for about 1/2 hour.

The shoulder has a pleat in it.  I'm not sure if I like that. 

So that's my muslin.  The only thing I'm not crazy about is that pleat in the shoulder of the sleeve.  I think when I sew the actual jacket, I will sew the seams less than 5/8".  Maybe with a little more room in the sleeve, they won't pouf up like that.  What do you think?  I'm not really sure what the problem is there.

What do you think of the way the jacket fits on me?  This jacket will mostly be worn with sleeveless tops or dresses.  I don't like showing my arms much so this will be perfect for wearing around the office or out with friends.

I would love to hear your thoughts!  I'm going to work on the muslin for the Cordova now.

Happy Sewing!!